The First Timer's Guide to Osa Peninsula, Costa Rica

A welcoming guide

I've lived in Costa Rica since 2009, spending 12 years as a local on the Osa Peninsula. I know the best and worst aspects, the cheapest and most luxurious ways of living, and I've also explored many tourism experiences as an international travel recommender.

The Osa Peninsula is everything I wanted Costa Rica to be. Still relatively untouched by mass tourism (with its exceptions as Sirena’s Corcovado National Park Biological Station, now it is crowded), but remote, and easy to find real grassroots local experiences. The Osa Peninsula offers a variety of experiences including wildlife spotting, water sports, and cultural activities that allow you to see the heart of the area. 

The region isn’t for everyone, the remote and basic accommodations dotted around La Palma, Puerto Jimenez and Drake Bay, Costa Rica doesn’t usually cater to the uber-luxury traveler. If you’re not a fan of bugs, spiders or sharing your shower with local bats then you should consider staying in a more upscale rainforest eco-lodge. If you enjoy being surrounded by nature, steps away from rivers and beaches and waking up to the sounds of monkeys rustling in the treetops, then I definitely recommend giving the Osa a try.

What to do in the Osa Peninsula

The biggest draw of the Osa is that you are quite literally surrounded by nature. This is one the most remote places you can visit in the country and some of the must-do activities involve either a kayaking session into mangroves, a short or long hike or boat ride to access it. My best advice is to just relax, switch off your phone and let your jungle side come out.

La Palma

La Palma, nestled in the heart of the Osa Peninsula, offers a unique base for exploring Corcovado National Park. Unlike the larger, more developed Puerto Jiménez town, La Palma provides a more secluded and immersive experience, allowing you to truly disconnect and connect with nature and locals. While lacking an ATM, the charm of La Palma lies in its rustic simplicity and proximity to unparalleled natural beauty. Accessing Corcovado National Park from La Palma presents two distinct options, catering to different levels of adventure:

Option 1: The Los Patos Station Trail – For the Adventurous Hiker

For those seeking an invigorating challenge, the Los Patos Station trail offers a phenomenal hiking experience through indigenous territory. This route demands a certain level of fitness and preparedness, rewarding intrepid explorers with breathtaking vistas and an intimate connection with the unspoiled wilderness. Expect a journey of discovery, immersing yourself in the raw beauty and unique ecosystems only accessible by foot.

Option 2: Corcovado Pristine Waters Access – For Everyone Else

If the rigors of a strenuous hike aren't appealing, don't worry! The Corcovado Pristine Waters access provides a more accessible route for almost everyone. This option allows you to experience the intense greens and vibrant life of Corcovado's interior, bypassing the more challenging trails. While this method may not provide the same immersive hiking experience, it remains a fantastic way to witness the park's unparalleled beauty without the physical demands of an extensive trek. Perfect for those who want to soak in the stunning scenery and immerse themselves in nature's grandeur with a more relaxed approach.

Regardless of your chosen route, La Palma serves as an ideal starting point, offering a tranquil retreat after a day exploring the wonders of Corcovado. It's a destination where you can escape the hustle and bustle of everyday life and discover the magic of the Osa Peninsula.

For activities in this area I must recommend Naturalis Osa Tours agency.

Puerto Jimenez

Puerto Jiménez town offers a vibrant starting point for your Corcovado National Park adventure, with access to the park's diverse ecosystems. Two distinct routes offer vastly different experiences:

Option 1: The Sirena Station Boat Journey (Day Tour for Water-Loving Explorers)

Embark on a scenic boat trip from Puerto Jiménez to Sirena Station, the most popular entry point to Corcovado. This journey offers breathtaking coastal views and opportunities to spot wildlife from the water. The boat ride itself is an adventure, often providing glimpses of dolphins, birds, and other wildlife. Once at Sirena, you can explore the incredibly diverse rainforest ecosystem through guided walks, encountering a wealth of flora and fauna with relative ease. This option minimizes strenuous hiking while maximizing wildlife-sighting opportunities.

Option 2: The La Leona Station Road Trip (For Adventurous Drivers and Hikers)

For the intrepid adventurer, a bumpy, unforgettable two-hour 4x4 drive to La Leona Station offers a unique perspective on the Osa Peninsula. This lengthy and challenging journey across rugged terrain provides profound immersion in the landscape. This experience is not for the faint of heart—expect significant vehicle jostling—but it offers a different kind of access to Corcovado's wild interior. La Leona offers hiking trails through diverse ecosystems, providing intimate encounters with Corcovado's wildlife and stunning scenery. Be prepared for a substantial drive and check your vehicle's condition beforehand. This route accesses trails different from those at Sirena Station.

Puerto Jiménez provides a more developed base than Drake Bay, offering a wider range of amenities and accommodations. Whether you choose the Sirena boat trip or the thrilling drive to La Leona, your journey to Corcovado begins with a choice as exciting as the destination itself.

Important Note Regarding Sirena Station: While the boat trip to Sirena Station is the most popular and convenient route, its popularity leads to significant crowding. Boat trips are often heavily booked, resulting in long queues and a potentially diminished wildlife viewing experience. The concentration of tourists can create a "zoo-like" atmosphere, where animals are observed in a less natural, more disturbed state, rather than in a truly wild encounter. Consider this when choosing your access point to Corcovado National Park via Sirena Station.

For this experience, I recommend Osa Wild tour agency.

Drake Bay

Drake Bay offers another base for exploring the Osa Peninsula. From Drake Bay, Caño Island and Corcovado National Park are a short boat ride away. It's more rustic than Puerto Jiménez and lacks an ATM, but it feels more secluded. Its remote beaches and numerous trails are almost attractions in themselves. While the downtown area is somewhat crowded and tourism businesses are busy, it retains its charm.

My recommendation in this area is Top Trails Corcovado tour agency.

Corcovado National Park

Corcovado packs a punch with 164 square miles of primary and secondary rainforests, 39 kilometers of beaches and 13 major ecosystems. It is Costa Rica's largest national park, making up close to a third of the Osa Peninsula. On a hike through the park, you might encounter bull sharks and crocodiles swimming in the waters, and tapirs, jaguars, four species of monkeys, sloths, peccary, anteater, scarlet macaws, woodpecker, and coati on land.

Sirena Station offers basic overnight accommodation, or you can visit for a day hike. Note that bringing food or single-use plastics into the park is prohibited. If staying overnight, budget approximately $20 per meal at the station and $60 per night for accommodation. Guided tours are mandatory, as trails change seasonally; rates range from $100 to $180 per day, depending on difficulty.

A Corcovado tour generally includes a boat trip to Sirena or San Pedrillo Park Ranger Station and a guided hike with lunch. While wildlife viewing is abundant, this option is less spectacular than the more remote Sirena Station, which many choose. I saw many animals, but my group encountered other groups several times, making the experience feel less secluded and more commonplace.

Starting in January 2025, a new, easier route through indigenous territory will be available for less experienced hikers. Naturalis Osa Tours offers various tours, packages, and accommodation options for those prioritizing authentic ecotourism.

Kayaking Golfo Dulce's mangroves from Playa Blanca beach, La Palma

Explore the serene beauty of Golfo Dulce with a kayaking adventure departing from Playa Blanca in La Palma. Paddle through the intricate network of mangrove forests, a vibrant ecosystem teeming with life. Keep a watchful eye out for playful dolphins weaving through the waterways, graceful sea turtles grazing on seagrass beds, and, during the humpback whale season (typically June to December), the majestic giants themselves may grace you with their presence. This unique kayaking tour provides an intimate encounter with the Golfo Dulce's rich biodiversity, offering unparalleled opportunities for wildlife observation in their natural habitat. Remember to bring sunscreen, a hat, and plenty of water for your unforgettable journey through this extraordinary ecosystem.

Alto Laguna Indigenous Territory

Alto Laguna Indigenous Territory is a vast expanse of rainforest encompassing 400 hectares in the deepest of Corcovado National Park and Golfo Dulce Forest Reserve. Characterized by a dense network of rivers and waterways, Alto Laguna offers unparalleled opportunities for exploring pristine jungle environments. The territory is home to a rich biodiversity, including howler monkeys, jaguars, macaws, tapir, peccaries, and a vast variety of amphibians and reptiles. Accessing Alto Laguna requires a day journey to discover local living by 1 hour 4x4 driving or on 2hr hike, offering a unique and immersive cultural experience with the indigenous community. The opportunity to learn about their traditions, sustainable practices, and deep connection with the land is as rewarding as witnessing the abundant wildlife in this remarkable ecosystem.

Cano Island

Cano Island (Isla del Caño) is a small 300-hectare island off the northern coast of the Osa Peninsula ringed by a great number of coral reefs.

Cano Island is considered the premier spot to snorkel and scuba dive in Costa Rica. Year-round warm water makes it worth the 45-minute boat trip from Drake Bay as is the chance to spot whales and dolphins along the way. The clear waters are home to dolphins, rays, all kinds of fish, eels, turtles, sharks, and whales.

Horseback ride or hike to San Josecito beach

Playa San Josecito is a white-sand, crescent-shaped beach located 6 km south of Drake Bay. A really unique activity is to get to the beach on horseback. While lounging on the beach keep an eye out for sloths and monkeys resting in the trees overhead.

You can also hike to San Josecito via a 2.5-hour long trail. You will have to cross Rio Claro along the way which could involve wadding through calf deep water or taking a short ferry ride across when the water is at its highest. Make sure to take plenty of water and keep your eye out for wildlife along the way. For a full day option take a boat to Rincon Beach which is a bit further along and hike back to Drake Bay, stopping at San Josecito along the way.

Canopy Tour

Costa Rica is the home of canopying and the Osa isn’t going to be left out when it comes to the exhilarating activity of zip lining. Your adventure usually begins high up in the hills reached by ATV or horseback.

The canopy tour consists of 9 platforms, 6 traverse cables, one over 100 meters long (300 ft), a 9 meter suspended observation walkway and a 25-meter rappel down to the edge of a stream for wildlife spotting.

Dolphin and Whale Watching Tours

There are two main whale seasons, December to April and July to October and the area is known for having the longest humpback whale season in the world. If you keep an eye out it’s entirely possible to spot whales breaching from the mainland but if you want to make sure to see these magnificent creatures then you can easily organize a tour in town. My top tip is to plan your visit to Playa Blanca, La Palma first, as I was lucky to spot two whales and several dolphins just hanging in front the beach.

Rancho Quemado

There are really not many places in the world where you casually bump into the founder of the village while attending a town-wide meeting to greet visitors. Actually, this is the first time I’ve ever experienced this level of unplanned local interaction. In just a few days I got invited to tea at the home of a local elder, played games with the kids of the village in their central meeting place - the football field-cum-stadium, and had dinner with the family who runs Rancho Verde de Osa.

Rancho Quemado is a small 300-person village located 15 km east of Drake Bay in the heart of the Osa Peninsula. If you’re up for a rural experience with the chance to actually get to know the locals then I really suggest you give Rancho Quemado a try. I could have spent my whole trip here and you could easily base yourself here instead of Drake Bay and do some day trips to the bigger sites like Corcovado and Caño Island.

I learnt from several of the elders about their life growing up in such a remote location and the unique struggles and situations that arise when raising a raising a family in a small village. My favourite story was about the local battery-operated tv that was used to watch the nightly showing of a telenovela. Residents took it in turn to make the full day trek to the nearest village with power to recharge the battery and head back to watch the next episode. This involved an overnight so they would always miss at least one episode.

Artisanal gold mining tour

El Descanso de la Pizota, nestled in the El Tigre community at the gateway to Corcovado National Park, was a true highlight of my trip. This unique experience offers a captivating glimpse into the life and traditions. Learn about their rich history and culture, and participate in hands-on activities that showcase their deep connection to the land. I had the opportunity to go into a deep caved gold tunnel. Sharing stories and laughter with the welcoming of La Pizota, over traditional snacks and drinks, was an unforgettable experience, creating a genuine and lasting connection far beyond a typical tourist encounter. It's more than a visit; it's a cultural immersion.

Also Finca Las Minas was one of the highlights of my time in Rancho Quemado. The tour allows you to get to know the work of artisanal gold miner and the history of gold in Costa Rica including getting some hands-on experience with gold mining techniques. I got to try my hand at panning for gold for the very first time and actually found some! After the tour, I got to try some traditional snacks and have a chat with the family which was probably my favourite part.

Laguna Chocuaco Canoe Trip

Canoe into a private lagoon located in primary rainforest. You get to hike one mile to the lagoon with your local guide helping you spot wildlife and pointing out the interesting local plants used in the area. The canoe trip allows you to see some amazing bird life and it is a serene experience quietly paddling down the lagoon.

Osa Peninsula Hotels

There are different levels of accommodation to choose from and most are comfortable, if a bit basic, but you can still find a luxury rainforest eco-lodge if that suits your tastes. While there are big resorts dotted around the peninsula, most accommodation is rustic and take advantage of its surroundings to provide a unique experience.

High-End Lodging

Kunken Boutique Hotel & Spa

Tis hotel is unique and offers high-end accommodation, full board, and packaged tours leaving right from their own dock and has been named one of National Geographic’s “Unique Lodges of the World”. They are a model in ecotourism and have won awards worldwide for social and environmental excellence. If you’re considering a bit of a splurge during your time in Costa Rica then this is definitely the place to do it.

Check out their reviews on Trip Advisor.

Mid-Range Lodging

Danta Corcovado Lodge

Danta Corcovado Lodge’s accommodations exude warmth, creativity and style. Unwind in one of our hammocks after a long day of adventure or simply spend the day disconnecting from your hectic lives letting Mother Nature heal and energize.

Check out the latest prices: Booking.com | 

Read their reviews on Trip Advisor.

Budget Lodging

Lapamar Lodge At Playa Blanca, La Palma

Lapamar Lodge's accommodations on Playa Blanca, Puerto Jimenez, offer a tranquil escape where the Pacific Ocean's rhythm meets rustic elegance. Unwind in comfortable rooms designed to capture the beauty of the surrounding rainforest and the mesmerizing ocean views. Spend your days exploring the vibrant ecosystem, and your evenings relaxing on your private balcony, letting the sounds of the waves and the gentle breeze wash away the stresses of daily life. Reconnect with nature and allow the serenity of Lapamar to rejuvenate your soul.

See this place

Corcovado Guide House, Guadalupe, La Palma

Corcovado Guide House, nestled deep within the Reserva Forestal Golfo Dulce y Corcovado, offers rustic charm and a true immersion in the rainforest. Find respite in simple yet comfortable accommodations, designed to let the sounds and scents of the jungle surround you. After a day of exploring the incredible biodiversity surrounding the lodge, unwind in the peaceful atmosphere, allowing the tranquility of the forest to soothe and revitalize you. Let the Corcovado Guide House be your basecamp for an unforgettable connection with nature.

Check this place on  Booking.

Getting there

The easiest way to get in is by plane. You can change in the capital, San Jose and fly to either, Puerto Jiménez Airport, Drake Bay or Palma Sur airports (45 mins). Alternatively, you can go via land by shuttle, public bus or renting a car and catching a boat from Sierpe or renting a car in Botanika Hotel in Puerto Jimenez hotel next to Puerto Jimenez airport. It takes about six hours by car.

Depending on your arrival time at Juan Santamaría International Airport (SJO), you may need to spend a night in San José or Alajuela before traveling to the Osa Peninsula. This is especially true if you are traveling with children, as it allows them to recover from jet lag.

Flying to Osa Peninsula

Sansa have short flights toPuerto Jimenez and Drake Bay Airport from San Jose. Make sure you arrange ground transfer with your accommodation in advance as this is a really small airport and taxis aren’t really going to be lining up to take you into town.

Keep in mind that depending on where you’re staying on the peninsula you might need to arrive at your hotel via boat transfer. I’d suggest wearing shoes you can remove so they don’t get wet getting on and off the boats.

Osa Peninsula Overland

If coming by land, the best option is to take the bus (5-6 hours) from the BLANCO LOBO station to Puerto Jimenez if your going to La Palma or Puerto Jimenez but might look up TRACOPA bus station in San Jose to Palmar Norte, then you’ll need to take a short taxi or bus ride to Sierpe. From Sierpe it’s a 2-hour boat ride to Drake Bay.

Getting around Osa Peninsula roads

Most places are either accessed by public transport, shuttle or by boat. If you’re renting a car make sure you get a 4-wheel drive as the roads can get quite muddy and there may be some small rivers you need to cross. #adventure! Here’s my recommendation Nomad Rent a Car

Naturalis Osa Tours

The team behind Naturalis Osa Tours personalized my time in Osa, helping me discover some truly unique experiences. I highly recommend checking out their website for fully organized tours or hand-picked local adventures. They offer over 50 activities and lodging options in Costa Rica to suit various budgets.

The best thing about Naturalis Osa Tours is their commitment to supporting the local community by directly benefiting local people. You won't find any chain hotels or crowded tourist bus tours here—just authentic, local experiences. If you've been following my blog, you know Costa Rica is usually a bit too easy to travel, lacking the challenge I often seek. This excellent tourist infrastructure often means I'm surrounded by first-time travelers and families—demographics I don't always mesh with.

Thankfully, Naturalis Osa Tours opened my eyes to the still-remote and relatively untouched parts of the Osa Peninsula and the whole country, places I've since grown to love. See how they handpick experiences through an extensive selection process, including in-person vetting, and browse their adventures online.

Travel Tips

• With all the hiking you’ll be doing make sure you have a quality daypack with some waterproofing to protect you from the main part of the rainforest.

• Make sure you’ve packed enough sunscreen and bug spray as well as a decent water bottle.

• Think about how you’re going to keep your camera and other electronics dry. Be mindful when moving between your cooler hotel room into the more humid outdoors as your lenses will likely fog up. Use a dry bag to prevent condensation.

• Make sure you’ve worn in your hiking boots well before your trip and pack moisture wicking pants and socks to avoid that icky damp feeling.

• Consider some rubber boots for the more remote areas like Rancho Quemado or even to replace your liking boots altogether.

• There is no ATM in La Palma either Drake Bay and most places accept only cash so make sure to bring enough to last you. If you need money in an emergency, there are a couple of places in town that will allow you to take a cash advance out of your card for a hefty fee.